Exquisite Kyoto Yuzen Designs,
Thoughtfully Created to Stir the Heart

"Nariken" is a Kyoto-based dyeing atelier known for carrying the beauty of Kyoto Yuzen into the present day. At their workshop, traditional techniques are preserved with care, while young artisans bring a fresh sensibility to each creation. From this city steeped in cultural elegance come radiant and dramatic works — each one thoughtfully crafted to inspire a sense of joy and enchantment. In this feature, we explore the creative spirit behind their artistry.

In This Article:
・The history and philosophy of “Nariken”.
・Traditional techniques of Kyoto Yuzen and how they are passed down.
・What makes Nariken’s creations exceptionally beautiful.
・The atelier’s efforts to train young artisans and shape the future of Kyoto Yuzen.

Highly regarded among kimono connoisseurs with a keen sense of style, “Nariken” is a dyeing atelier specializing in Kyoto Yuzen — a traditional dyeing art that involves numerous steps, each handled by artisans with specialized skills. These works are entirely handmade, requiring precise coordination and artistic direction. In this process, the senshō (master dyer) plays the role of a creative producer — from conceptual planning to overseeing the entire production.
Nariken’s kimono are frequently featured in commercials and television dramas, meaning that even those unfamiliar with kimono may have seen their work without realizing it. Their designs are consistently awarded at Kyoto Yuzen competitions, which speaks volumes about their refined aesthetic. Among fans, a particular shade of blue — not quite indigo, not quite turquoise — is affectionately known as “Nariken Blue,” admired for its uniqueness and depth.

The Allure of “Nariken Blue”
A Hue That Leaves a Lasting Impression

When we asked Mr. Kentaro Watanabe, second-generation president and the creative mind behind all of “Nariken”’s kimono, about the color affectionately known as “Nariken Blue”, his response was unexpectedly humble: “People seem to call it that, yes,” he said with a laugh. “But honestly, I’m not quite sure which shade they’re referring to — I’ve never aimed for a specific ‘blue’.”

He continued “Ever since I began working on Kyoto Yuzen designs, I’ve pursued color palettes that reflect my own preferences. Instead of using red, which is considered the traditional choice, I try to create vibrancy through blues, greens, yellows, and purples. Nariken Blue probably just emerged naturally from that kind of color sensibility — it’s simply a reflection of my style.”

Even among the kimono awaiting shipment at the workshop, Nariken Blue made its subtle yet striking presence known. In one piece, a chrysanthemum-filled design was composed almost entirely around this signature hue, lending a modern flair to the classical motif. In a Rinpa-inspired Houmongi — referencing a classical Japanese art style known for its bold, stylized depictions of nature — the color appeared vividly in the irises, standing out with elegant strength. Perhaps it is precisely because this shade fits so naturally within Mr. Watanabe’s personal palette that Nariken Blue continues to leave such a vivid impression on those who see it.

Mastering Material, Color, and Pattern
All to Enrich the Wearer’s Elegance

Mr. Watanabe’s attention to detail extends far beyond color. One of his key concerns is the placement of motifs — carefully considering how the patterns will appear when worn. Even the blank spaces between motifs are thoughtfully arranged to enhance the beauty of the silhouette. He also creates iro-muji (single-color kimono), which have quietly become customer favorites. By weaving tussar silk into the base fabric, he achieves a sense of depth and sheen, giving even a single-color piece a luminous presence. Because of these material innovations, each bolt of fabric exudes a subtle brilliance, even without elaborate decoration. In addition to standard colors, Nariken also accepts custom-dye orders — dyeing plain white fabric into a color of the customer’s choice, allowing for more personalized expression.

One reason “Nariken” is so beloved by kimono enthusiasts lies in Mr. Watanabe’s guiding belief: kimono should be enjoyed as stylish everyday wear, not just as formal attire or uniforms. His designs often reinterpret classical patterns with a modern sensibility — yet they always retain the refined dignity unique to Kyoto Yuzen.

When creating new kimono, Mr. Watanabe doesn’t limit himself to the conventions of traditional dressmaking. Instead, he draws inspiration from broader lifestyle trends and customer feedback gathered directly from sales floors, producing each piece with a well-rounded perspective — from aesthetic direction to pricing. While this approach may be unconventional in the world of kimono, it is a natural mindset in the fashion industry.

“The fact that so many people have embraced the kimono I’ve taken a chance on makes me feel like I might be on the right path,” Mr. Watanabe says with a nod. Given that Nariken’s clientele is largely made up of fashion-conscious individuals in their 40s and 50s, it’s easy to understand the appeal of his modern yet dignified designs.

Hiring Young Artisans to Secure
the Future of Kyoto Yuzen

Mr. Watanabe’s efforts extend far beyond product development and sales. To ensure the survival of Kyoto Yuzen, he is also deeply committed to passing on its techniques to the next generation. The decline in kimono demand has long reduced work opportunities for artisans, leading to a well-known crisis of aging craftspeople and a lack of successors. Despite this, the industry has struggled to take effective action.

“I believe the current shortage of artisans is partly because Kyoto-based ateliers haven’t been hiring and training them,” Watanabe explains. “If the artisans disappear, so does the craft of Kyoto Yuzen. But I’ve met many young people who genuinely want to become artisans — who dream of doing Yuzen work. Waiting for ‘someone else’ to fix the problem isn’t good enough. That’s why I made the decision to hire young craftspeople as full-time employees, with a long-term view toward sustaining Kyoto Yuzen.”

As of spring 2024, “Nariken” employs a total of five artisans. When we visited the workshop on the second floor of their sleek new studio — which was relocated in 2023 — we were greeted by a lively and focused atmosphere. Aside from a seasoned artisan who has worked alongside Mr. Watanabe for many years as a pattern designer, the remaining members were young female artisans who had studied Yuzen dyeing at specialized vocational schools, each fully immersed in her craft.

Refined Kimono with a Modern Spirit
Fresh Sensibility Woven into Tradition

At Nariken, the pursuit of beauty is rooted in delicately hand-crafted techniques, with a strong emphasis on itome tegaki yuzen — the traditional method of freehand resist dyeing using fine paste outlines. In the workshop, we observed a sixth-year artisan placing intricate itome outlines using handmade tools and authentic rice paste, demonstrating both technical precision and artistic sensitivity — a testament to the quiet brilliance that defines Nariken’s approach to modern Kyoto Yuzen.

“In hand-painted Yuzen, rice paste is applied along the outlines of the design to prevent colors from bleeding into one another. These outlines are called itome,” Mr. Watanabe explains. “There are two types of paste — traditional hon-nori and rubber-based paste. Hon-nori, made from glutinous rice, is quite elastic and requires significant grip strength to apply. One of our artisans even makes her own tools and is able to create itome lines with the precision of a seasoned professional.”

Itome is not simply a matter of tracing a sketch — without variation in pressure and flow, the design can lack depth or perspective. In this sense, itome is a vital part of the artistic expression in Yuzen, shaping the visual character of the entire piece. Mr. Watanabe also introduced another artisan dedicated to a task rarely seen once the kimono is complete — yet quietly essential to its creation. This involves carefully pressing out tiny bubbles from the rubber-based paste during the resist-paste application stage, known as awa-keshi.This involves carefully pressing out tiny bubbles from the rubber-based paste during the resist-paste application stage. “It’s one of the most behind-the-scenes parts of the process,” he notes. “But without it, we wouldn’t be able to dye the background fabric at all. She handles nori-fuse (paste-resist application), itome, and the color painting — she really does it all.”

We also had the opportunity to observe the iro-sashi (color application) process. On a summer-weight fabric, a soft blue was being carefully brushed over a delicate zuiun (auspicious cloud) motif rendered in gofun (white pigment). The artisan was using a bokashi hake — a special brush with staggered bristles designed to create a natural gradation. After soaking the entire brush in water, she applied dye only to the longer bristles, allowing the color to blend gradually within the brush before it touched the fabric. Each artisan’s task demanded an extraordinary level of concentration — so much so that we found ourselves holding our breath as we watched. The atmosphere in the workshop was hushed and focused, filled with the silent tension of deep creative immersion.

When we look at a finished Yuzen kimono, it’s easy to be captivated by its overall beauty. But behind each pattern, each line, and each hue lies the painstaking work of highly skilled artisans. Watching the creation process up close, we were struck by just how much handwork goes into a single kimono. It became clear why Kyoto Yuzen continues to resonate so deeply — it is a beauty born of countless, quiet acts of devotion.

Continuing to Challenge
In Kimono Craft and in Business

Mr. Watanabe’s father, Mr. Kenzo Watanabe, is a renowned Kyoto Yuzen master known for his refined classical designs. After graduating from high school, Kentaro Watanabe joined his father’s company and began working as a senshō (master dyer). At the time, their home and the business were located separately, so he had no idea what kind of work his father actually did. A few years into his career, however, the kimono industry was hit hard by the aftermath of Japan’s economic bubble collapse, causing many wholesalers to go out of business. In response, Mr. Watanabe and his father made the decision to downsize the company and shift toward direct partnerships with retailers. From the very beginning, Mr. Watanabe’s journey has been defined not only by artistic craftsmanship, but also by bold decisions and resilience in management.

“The voices of our customers — those who actually wear kimono — have always been my greatest source of guidance,” says Mr. Watanabe. “Being able to work closely with them has been one of my greatest assets. Kyoto Yuzen is wearable art, brought to life by the hands of skilled artisans. I want to continue elevating its value.”

Now that the COVID-19 pandemic has passed and kimono outings are once again being embraced, Nariken’s creations are in high demand. With limited production volumes, their works have become increasingly rare — customers from across Japan often remark how difficult it is to come across a piece. In response, Mr. Watanabe is now considering new approaches to distribution. Whatever the next step may be, one thing is certain: “Nariken” will continue to enchant us with kimono that not only adorn the body, but bring true joy to the soul.

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Nariken
486-4 Nakamatsucho, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
+81-75-496-4995
Official Website＞＞
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Text & Interview by Miki Shirasu