Through her brand Kyorasa—which means “beautiful” in the Amami dialect—she brings fresh perspectives to this traditional textile,transforming her reverence for Amami’s abundant natural beauty into modern expressions of wearable art.
In This Article:
- The Work of Oshima-tsumugi Coordinator Kaori Urushibara.
- A Modern Take on Oshima-tsumugi with Amami Bingata and Unique Tailoring.
- Designs Inspired by Amami’s Native Flora and Fauna.
- Discovering New Ways to Enjoy Oshima-tsumugi.
- Revitalizing a Former Weaving Studio into a Cultural Spot.
Expanding the Appeal of Oshima-tsumugi
with Modern Styling Through Creative Craftsmanship
Ms. Kaori Urushibara of Kyorasa continues to create original works that share the beauty of authentic Amami Oshima-tsumugi, traveling between Kanagawa and her native Amami Oshima. Her expressive world includes hand-dyed Amami Bingata—designed, carved into stencil paper (katagami), and dyed by her own hand—as well as distinctive tailoring that highlights striking kasuri fabrics in the sleeves, front panels, or obi to create a cohesive and modern ensemble. Her creations offer entirely new ways to enjoy Oshima-tsumugi—approaches that feel fresh while remaining deeply connected to tradition. Holding one of her pieces may reveal the unexplored potential of this extraordinary textile.
Expressing Gratitude for Amami’s Rich Nature
through Original Amami Bingata Designs
The motifs in Ms. Urushibara’s Amami Bingata are drawn from the island’s rich natural environment—tropical plants such as monstera, pandanus, Indian almond, and shell ginger (gettō), as well as wildlife like the ruddy kingfisher and the Ryukyu jay. Some designs are rendered in vibrant colors that evoke the lushness of living nature, while others incorporate traditional Japanese patterns like seigaiha (waves) and asanoha (hemp leaf) alongside botanical forms to create a harmonious blend of island and Japanese aesthetics. She also explores chic monochromatic styles in silver and navy, showcasing the breadth of her expression.
“I’ve been using Amami’s natural scenery as the inspiration for my Bingata ever since I began learning the craft ten years ago,” says Ms. Urushibara. “The tropical flora and fauna are so unique—they constantly captivate me. I enjoy imagining what to depict next, and how to bring it to life.”
The name of her brand, Kyorasa, means “how beautiful” in the Amami dialect. True to its name, her creations are filled with the wonder she feels when gazing at island nature—from subtropical plants to the shimmering ocean at sunset. Each work is an expression of that quiet awe.
Ms. Urushibara approaches her craft in the true spirit of a Bingata artist—drawing her own designs, carving stencils from persimmon-dyed shibugami paper, applying resist paste, and hand-coloring each detail. Every motif—drawn from Amami’s subtropical plants—is connected by fine lines, woven into a singular world of her own creation. Her works also incorporate kumadori, a traditional Bingata shading technique, to evoke the warmth and vitality of the southern islands. But her Amami Bingata is not meant to be simply admired like a painting. For her, the work is only complete when it becomes part of an outfit—worn and lived in, not just viewed. Perhaps that’s why, when paired with one of her vibrant obi, even the traditionally subdued tones of authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi are instantly enlivened. The effect is striking: a refined textile becomes modern, fresh, and full of life. And that transformation is precisely her intention.
“Production of authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi has been shrinking year by year. From the 200,000 to 300,000 bolts produced annually after the Meiji era, that number has now dropped below 3,000 as of 2023 (Reiwa 5). I hope to help people rediscover the beauty of this textile—by encouraging more people to wear it and experience its true charm for themselves.”
From Interior Coordinator
to Oshima-tsumugi Creator
Ms. Urushibara was born in Naze City on Amami Oshima. Her family ran a local weaving house, Keikin Orimono, founded by her grandfather. As a child, she often played beside the looms where craftspeople worked. Although she originally had no plans to enter the world of textiles, she went on to study at a junior college in Osaka, later working in Tokyo as an interior coordinator. In that role, she helped people create living spaces that felt personal and comfortable. Now, she channels that same sensibility into helping people express themselves through how they wear Oshima-tsumugi.
“The experience I gained in a completely different field—and the perspective I gained from viewing Amami from the outside—have become the foundation of my work as a Tsumugi creator. If I can contribute to my hometown in some way, that would bring me the greatest happiness.”
“When I touched the fabric of Oshima-tsumugi again after a long time, I was struck by its beautiful texture—and I was reminded of how much work goes into making it. That experience made me rediscover just how special this textile is. As I started wondering what it might look like paired with other materials, or how chic it could become with more vivid colors, I gradually found myself drawn back into the world of creative craftsmanship.”
She also realized that combining Oshima-tsumugi with different materials was still a rarity in the market. This led her to collaborate with a leather artisan to create a series of handbags. Once unveiled, the pieces quickly gained attention and were soon featured at a department store—marking her official start as an Oshima-tsumugi creator.
One of her signature pieces is an obi ornament inspired by the traditional Tatsugo pattern of Oshima-tsumugi. Co-created with cord craft artist Ms. Narumi Kato, this accessory adds a playful splash of color to classic attire.
Among her most popular items is a sleeveless gilet made of stripe-patterned summer Oshima-tsumugi—woven using threads dyed in themes of Amami’s ocean and the wings of the Ryukyu black-winged damselfly. For 2024, she has begun working on a new collection inspired by the vivid hues of fish native to the Amami seas.
Transforming Her Family’s Former Factory into
a Space That Brings Oshima-tsumugi Closer to Everyday Life
Ms. Urushibara originally began her brand by repurposing fabric remnants of Oshima-tsumugi. The more she worked with the textile, the more she was captivated by its charm—eventually inspiring her to explore traditional Japanese styling more consciously. Alongside her original bingata dyeing, one of the most iconic creations under the Kyorasa brand is her “Kawari-Shitate” (alternative tailoring) Oshima-tsumugi kimono. These garments reimagine kimono coordination by combining two types of textiles—mud-dyed solid black and bold kasuri patterns—into a single piece. The base of the kimono remains solid, while the patterned fabrics are strategically placed on the front panels and sleeves. A matching obi is also crafted from the same kasuri fabric. The result is a fresh, modern look—refined yet playful—accented by subtle hints of color at the sleeve edges or through accessories like obiage sashes.
She said with a smile, "It was thanks to meeting a tailor who enjoys this kind of creative challenge. I’m really grateful—they always have fun with the process. Actually, even the hakkake (lining) is made from patterned fabric."
Now, Ms. Urushibara’s next venture is to breathe new life into her family’s former textile factory.
“The building still holds many tools and threads from when it was an active workshop. I’d like to transform it into a space where people can experience Oshima Tsumugi more intimately. Since it’s located in the center of town, it would be easy for travelers to stop by—and hopefully, it will become one of the highlights of a visit to Amami Oshima.”
Originally working as an interior coordinator, Ms. Urushibara is now channeling her creative sensibilities into a new dream project. While she is still in the planning stages—gathering ideas through conversations with various people—one can’t help but wonder what kind of space will emerge. The anticipation is growing.
Warm and approachable, she maintains close ties with local artisans, and her deep affection for Oshima-tsumugi only continues to grow stronger over time. With a heart full of gratitude and wonder, Ms. Urushibara is surely destined to bring new ways of enjoying this treasured textile to life.
See Also : The Textile Encyclopedia | Amami Oshima-tsumugi (Kagoshima Prefecture)
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Kyorasa
Kaneku-cho, Naze, Amami City, Kagoshima
More Information
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Text & Interview by Miki Shirasu
