Production Area／Shiozawa, Niigata Prefecture
目次
Masterpieces from a Snow-Covered Land,
Woven with Textural Finesse and Intricate Kasuri Patterns
In the Shiozawa region of Minami-Uonuma, Niigata Prefecture—an area known for its heavy snowfall—two of Japan’s most revered woven textiles continue to be produced: Hon-Shiozawa and Shiozawa Tsumugi.
Winter cloaks the region in deep snow, and the abundant meltwater in spring provides the ideal conditions for finishing high-quality fabrics. Nature itself becomes part of the weaving process, giving birth to textiles of exceptional clarity and softness.
While both are premium woven textiles made using traditional Japanese techniques, they each possess distinct characteristics. Hon-Shiozawa is designated as a Traditional Craft of Japan and is woven with tightly twisted weft yarns, resulting in a crisp, cool texture that feels light against the skin. In contrast, Shiozawa Tsumugi is made with hand-spun silk (mawata), featuring subtle warmth and expressive kasuri (ikat) patterns such as hexagons and crosses, each woven with meticulous care.
As the number of artisans dwindles and the production area continues to shrink, the future of this historic weaving tradition is at a critical juncture. To explore how these precious techniques are being preserved and carried forward, we visited Mr. Tsutomu Hosaka, the president of Yamada Ori, a weaving atelier dedicated to sustaining the cultural heritage of Shiozawa’s textile craftsmanship.
The Sophisticated Artistry of Hon-Shiozawa:
The Distinctive Charm of High-Twist Threads
Among the many types of textiles produced in the Shiozawa area today, Hon-Shiozawa stands out as the most widely woven. This silk fabric evolved from the techniques of Echigo-jōfu, a textile with a 1,300-year tradition and designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan. As a textile-producing region, Shiozawa has flourished for centuries, gaining particular renown in the Edo period when its fabrics were offered as tributes to the shogunate and feudal lords.
What makes Hon-Shiozawa truly exceptional is its use of high-twist weft yarns, which are tightly twisted threads that create a unique surface texture known as shibo through a special steaming and kneading process. This shibo texture gives the fabric a smooth, cool touch and a light, airy feel—making it perfect for unlined kimono (hitoe) worn in warmer months. In today’s climate, where hot weather extends longer into the year, Hon-Shiozawa proves especially practical and desirable. However, this distinctive texture requires a high level of craftsmanship to achieve.
High-twist yarns behave very differently from regular threads—they have strong recoil and are difficult to handle. If the tension isn’t carefully controlled during weaving, the fabric can easily warp or become uneven. Experienced weavers must rely on years of training and refined intuition to adjust the thread tension with precision. Once the cloth is woven, it undergoes the yumo-mi (hot water kneading) process. By manipulating the tension and allowing the yarns to naturally recoil, artisans create a beautifully uniform shibo. This delicate balance requires careful monitoring of temperature and humidity, showcasing the artisan’s deep sensitivity to nature. With its singular texture and refined finish, Hon-Shiozawa is a masterpiece of traditional Japanese aesthetics—woven with the spirit and skill of the artisan’s hand.
By contrast, Shiozawa tsumugi employs a basic plain weave, where the warp and weft threads cross alternately to produce a strong and durable fabric. This structure allows for the creation of fine stripes and checkered patterns with remarkable clarity. Additionally, Shiozawa tsumugi features intricate kasuri (ikat) motifs that are precisely calculated and woven into the fabric. Iconic patterns such as cross kasuri and kikkō (tortoiseshell) kasuri create elegant, geometric designs that blend simplicity with sophistication—embodying the refined and understated charm of traditional Japanese fashion.
A Visionary Leader with Global Insight
Guides the Future of Shiozawa Textiles
At its peak, the Shiozawa weaving industry produced an astounding 350,000 bolts of fabric annually. Today, that number has dwindled to just around 1,100. Even more striking, only about six weaving houses continue production, and the number of skilled artisans is steadily declining.
Among these remaining weaving houses is Yamada Ori, a company with a long-standing legacy dating back to its founding in 1913. The workshop once presented Honba Shiozawa Kasuri as a celebratory gift to then-Crown Prince Akihito and Princess Michiko upon their engagement. Known for pioneering advancements in weaving techniques, Yamada Ori has played a key role in the evolution of Shiozawa’s textile industry. In 1980, the company won the Minister of International Trade and Industry Award at the National Traditional Crafts Exhibition for a Hon-Shiozawa piece titled “Yuki no Naka no Kire” (“Fabric in the Snow”), further elevating its reputation. During its golden age, the workshop employed around 500 artisans and operated its looms around the clock.
Interestingly, the current president of Yamada Ori, Mr. Hosaka, does not come from the founding family. Born in Tokamachi, Niigata—a region also known for textile production—he grew up in a home where his father worked for a textile company and his mother was a kimono tailor. From a young age, Mr. Hosaka was determined to one day start his own company and become a president. This led him to study engineering at university. However, he quickly realized that technical skill alone would not suffice in a globalized market. “Even with world-class technology, you can’t seize international business opportunities without the ability to communicate in English,” he noted. Motivated by this belief, Mr. Hosaka studied abroad in Canada after graduation, then joined a manufacturing company where his language skills earned him a posting to the firm’s French office. As he gained experience as an engineer, he came to understand that long-term business success required not just technical expertise but also a solid grasp of management and strategy. This insight led him to pursue an MBA at the University of Edinburgh in the United Kingdom. Now equipped with both practical business knowledge and global experience, Mr. Hosaka brings a broad, future-oriented perspective to the traditional world of Shiozawa weaving—opening new possibilities for revival and innovation in a time of great challenge.
A Global Perspective That Led to
a New Path in Kimono Business
While living in France on an overseas assignment, Mr. Hosaka was struck by the high level of interest in Japanese traditional culture. What surprised him most was how kimono were not merely worn as garments, but also appreciated as elements of interior design and art. The common Japanese mindset—that kimono are meant to be stored away in wardrobes—was completely overturned. A casual remark from a senior colleague—“If your family is from Tokamachi, couldn’t you source kimono at a good price and start a business?”—planted the seed for a new venture. Inspired, Mr. Hosaka decided to launch a recycled kimono business. Under the name Chidoriya, he opened a physical store in the Shiozawa region and began offering carefully selected secondhand kimono online as well. His mission was clear: to make kimono more accessible as everyday wear, and to reintroduce their quiet elegance into people’s daily lives.
A Bold Decision and Challenge
to Inherit a Historic Weaving House
Mr. Hosaka’s honest and grounded business approach earned the trust of the local community, allowing his company to steadily grow. Around that time, Yamada Ori—a once-thriving weaving house—was facing the threat of closure. Recognizing Mr. Hosaka’s proven business acumen, those involved in the local textile industry approached him with a proposal: to take over and revive the declining enterprise.
What drove his decision was a sense of urgency—“If even one manufacturer disappears, it signals the decline of the entire production area.” His resolve to step in and act became a turning point in the future of Shiozawa tsumugi. Even after the leadership change, all the artisans chose to remain, and today, they continue to work with Mr. Hosaka in passing down the legacy of Shiozawa weaving.
Mr. Hosaka says that the experience he gained as an engineer has proven valuable in textile production as well.
“Weaving is essentially a form of design—it has a structure that can be assembled. But once a process begins, it’s incredibly difficult to make changes. If I can’t visualize the finished product from the outset and translate that into calculated plans and thread combinations, the final result won’t align with your vision. And because the artisans possess far more expertise than I do, I must be able to provide them with clear and precise direction.”
Drawing on his experience interacting with customers at his kimono resale shop, Mr. Hosaka has also developed a keen sense for shifting market needs. This insight enables him to quickly identify trends and reflect them in product development.
Tradition is not just preserved—
It must also evolve
Mr. Hosaka holds a firm belief: “What is truly genuine will always endure.” As lifestyles continue to change, the environment surrounding kimono is also shifting. While people in Japan wear kimono less frequently in everyday life, the artistry and craftsmanship behind it are being rediscovered and appreciated—both domestically and internationally.
This global reappraisal has made overseas expansion a key focus. Interest in traditional Japanese crafts has been growing steadily, particularly in Europe and the United States. The refined beauty and functionality of Shiozawa tsumugi hold immense potential in the global luxury market. Mr. Hosaka has taken proactive steps to present these textiles abroad, including participating in exhibitions in New York to introduce Shiozawa weaving to an international audience.
“Tradition is something that survives by adapting to its time,” says Mr. Hosaka. Shiozawa tsumugi, too, must continue to evolve without fear of change. His dedication to innovation, combined with respect for tradition, is paving the way for a new era—ensuring that the art of Shiozawa weaving is passed on with vitality to the next generation.
→ See also: Dictionary of Japanese Dyeing and Weaving /Shiozawa Tsumugi（Niigata）
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Yamada Ori
1507-1 Shiozawa, Minamiuonuma City, Niigata Prefecture
TEL +81-25-782-1124
Official Website＞＞
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