Honba Kihachijo is a silk textile dyed exclusively with plants that either grow naturally or are cultivated on Hachijo Island, blessed with abundant nature. It is characterized by its glossy, supple texture and brilliant yellow tones. The three basic colors are yellow, brown, and black. When the ground color is yellow, it is called “Kihachijo”; when brown, “Tobihachijo”; and when black, “Kurohachijo.” Although these three are fundamental, a variety of shades can be produced through different mordants, thread combinations, and weaving techniques.
The history of Honba Kihachijo dates back to the Muromachi period, when records show it was presented as a tribute textile. In 1515, when the Hojo clan took control of the island, it began to be offered as tax. During the early Edo period, only select people such as the shogun’s household, feudal lords, court ladies, and wealthy merchants could possess Kihachijo. Although yellow was once the dominant color, today black accounts for the majority. Unlike other dyeing methods where multiple pigments are mixed, its deep black is achieved purely from the tannins of the chinkapin tree (Shii tree). Raw silk is repeatedly dyed in decoctions of its bark, dehydrated, and sun-dried outdoors. This process is repeated around 40 times, with sunlight giving the textile its lustrous sheen. Designs are extremely simple—solid colors, stripes, or checks—intended to highlight the distinctive hues produced by the island’s flora. Honba Kihachijo textiles soften and conform to the body with wear, making them comfortable garments treasured over time.