Grace Woven from Integrity — A Kyoto Weaving House
Creating Refined Obi Through Sincere Craftsmanship

Renowned for its elegant obi that blend classical motifs with contemporary expression, "Nishijin Maizuru" is a prestigious weaving house at the heart of Kyoto’s Nishijin textile tradition. Its designs, which fuse traditional techniques with innovation, continue to captivate kimono connoisseurs. In this feature, we visit Mr. Masayuki Maizuru, the fifth-generation successor, to explore his philosophy of craftsmanship for the future.

In This Article:

• The history of Nishijin Maizuru and its dedication to tradition.
• How classical patterns and modern design harmonize in its obi.
• Artistic signature collections.
• The company’s in-house workshop and commitment to training young artisans.

The Signature Style of “Nishijin Maizuru”
Where Classical and Contemporary Designs Coexist

With its intricate patterns, delicate metallic threads, and elegant radiance, Nishijin Maizuru is a quintessential representative of formal obi in the Nishijin tradition. Graceful and refined, each piece reflects the spirit of a master weaver — resembling a painting in both design and depth of texture. Long admired by kimono enthusiasts, Nishijin Maizuru continues to embody prestige. In conversation with Mr. Masayuki Maizuru, fifth-generation president of the atelier, we discovered a deep sense of resolve to carry forward the Nishijin legacy, along with a sincere, unwavering devotion to the craft of weaving obi.

The hallmark of “Nishijin Maizuru” lies in its refined sense of color and design, enabling wearers to embody a sense of nobility and grace. Its obi are known for their distinctive ability to reinterpret classical motifs through a modern lens. For instance, a fresh, translucent color palette may breathe new life into time-honored patterns, adding a subtle sense of modernity to traditional elegance. Even with the iconic seigaiha (blue ocean wave) motif, Nishijin Maizuru introduces unique twists — incorporating chrysanthemum flowers or arabesques into the pattern, transforming the design with exquisite detail. On the other hand, series like “Reika”, inspired by the flowing movements of water, offer bold simplicity through sharp lines and a subdued, sophisticated palette. From timeless classical designs to minimalist modern styles, “Nishijin Maizuru” continues to be cherished for its ability to enhance any formal ensemble with understated elegance.

“We place a great deal of emphasis on both design and color,” says Mr. Maizuru. “With multicolored pieces, the number of colors can make inspection quite challenging. But even a simple design can take on an entirely different impression just by changing the color scheme — that’s the fascinating part.”

This pursuit of perfection extends not only to design, but also to how colors are dyed and refined.“It’s also a great advantage that we have a dye workshop right across from our atelier. Because we can check things frequently and communicate closely, we’re able to pursue the exact colors we envision, down to the finest detail.”

Obi as Works of Art — Showcasing Masterful Technique

While the bold and intricate designs are certainly captivating, what truly sets these obi apart is the extraordinary technical skill required to bring such visions to life. This level of craftsmanship is most clearly embodied in signature collections like “Gobelin Shōha” and “Yōkō Raden” — masterpieces woven with exceptional threads and unparalleled expertise, representing the very essence of “Nishijin Maizuru.”

“Gobelin Shōha” is a unique textile that combines the elegance of European Gobelin tapestry with shōha, a traditional Nishijin weaving technique that uses highly twisted warp and weft threads. Densely woven using five distinct warp colors, the result is an extraordinary fabric that showcases a complex layering of minute patterns — a true testament to technical mastery.
“To weave something of this caliber is only possible in Nishijin,” says Mr. Maizuru with conviction. “I truly believe that Nishijin possesses the finest textile techniques in the world.”

In contrast, another standout obi features layers of hiki-haku foil — a traditional technique in which ultra-thin foil is cut and laid onto washi paper, then finely woven into the fabric — using mother-of-pearl from white and peacock shells. The luminous shimmer of shell, distinct from that of silk, leaves a striking impression. This piece too is a rare achievement, made possible only through the advanced skills required to craft and weave hiki-haku.

Additionally, “Nishijin Maizuru” offers a range of exceptional obi showcasing the highest levels of craftsmanship — including rare pieces woven with warp threads made from Sanminken, an elusive silk cocoon said to produce threads about half the thickness of ordinary silk, as well as obi incorporating koto-strings traditionally used in Japanese zithers. Each creation carries a distinct, refined beauty that continues to captivate kimono aficionados.

Preserving Nishijin’s Future
Weaving for the Joy of Others　

“Nishijin Maizuru” was founded in 1907 by Mr. Shoshichi Maizuru, who established Maizuru Shoshichi Shōten after becoming independent from his former place of apprenticeship. The current president, Mr. Masayuki Maizuru, took over as the fifth-generation head in 2018. In an era where traditional Japanese attire continues to face significant challenges, Mr. Maizuru has embraced his role with a deep sense of urgency about the future of the weaving industry. One major step he took was establishing an in-house workshop directly across from the company’s Kyoto headquarters.

Until then, “Nishijin Maizuru” had relied on external weaving studios to handle its machine weaving. What prompted the shift? Mr. Maizuru explains:“One summer, a weaver collapsed from heatstroke while working in a non-air-conditioned facility. Many of the artisans were already advanced in age, and I felt a serious sense of crisis. That incident prompted me to build our own factory, where we could provide a safer and more sustainable environment.”At the same time, he made a commitment to generational renewal — actively hiring younger artisans to ensure continuity. During our visit to the workshop, we found a well-ventilated, climate-controlled space where young craftspeople were working with energy and focus — a scene that speaks to a hopeful future woven through thoughtful leadership.

Mr. Maizuru also expresses concern about current sales practices within the kimono industry, warning that if businesses continue to ignore the needs of customers, the distance between people and kimono will only grow.
“Craftsmanship must be rooted in customer needs. We are only able to continue our work thanks to the efforts of the weavers, the artisans at partner workshops, and our suppliers. That’s why I believe it’s essential to keep making obi that truly bring joy to our customers — while never forgetting to be grateful to those around us who make this possible.”

By honoring everyone involved — from artisans to suppliers to customers — “Nishijin Maizuru” continues to deliver high-quality obi with unwavering sincerity. This steadfast approach inspires those around them, drawing forth ever-better designs, finer threads, and greater techniques. It is this spirit of uncompromising craftsmanship that has sustained the atelier for over a century.
“In the end, what matters most is understanding why we do business,” Mr. Maizuru reflects. “For us, it’s about pursuing beauty and enriching people’s hearts through the obi we create.”

The grace embodied in every obi from “Nishijin Maizuru” is, in truth, the very reflection of the atelier’s own dignity — earned through generations of honest, devoted artistry.

　Nishijin Maizuru Co., Ltd.
39 Gotsujicho, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
+81-75-441-0001
　Official Website＞＞

Text & Interview by Miki Shirasu